Tea Lessons
I take my coffee very seriously- black please, none of that sissy stuff- but with tea I tend to indulge. I drink half a pot of coffee every morning, but I reserve my tea-drinking for rainy afternoons or cool, lonely nights, when the milky sweetness will be especially soothing. I was strictly an herbal tea drinker until I met J-, an visiting Englishman with a very strong opinion about the way he took his tea. He taught me how to make black tea the “proper English way,” a quick but complicated method involving careful attention to detail and the thick-skinned ability to take criticism when you’ve botched the job completely. This is how it’s done:
First, you must boil the water. Yes, it must be boiling. Because it just makes a difference, now do you want me to teach you how to do this, or not? Once the water is boiling, pour it into a mug and drop the tea bag in. Now, this part is important, because Americans always do this wrong. You do not steep your tea, it doesn’t need to stew, do you understand? You drop it in the water, and stir it ’round three or four times, and that’s it. Take it out and squeeze the excess water into the cup. Add a splash of milk (no, you can’t use cream! Cream is for coffee, never for tea, fucking Americans), and a cube of sugar if you’d like. Now, wait for the thing to cool so you don’t scald yourself, and enjoy.
Although I suffered some harsh scolding during these lessons (J- loved me, but had very little patience with me), once I mastered this method it forever changed my relationship with tea. I suddenly found myself in the humbling position of enjoying something I had forever claimed to be disgusting and vile. We humans are a delicate species. Our opinions are linked to our pride, and our pride is what makes us feel strong. It’s difficult, sometimes, to admit when we’ve been wrong.
Food is a gentle way to exercise one’s humility. I’ve learned to love many things that used to repel me, simply by giving them another chance. Asparagus, it seems, is actually delicious, especially when grilled just to the point of tenderness and drizzled with olive oil. Brussels sprouts, when also prepared this way, are equally irresistible. I’m learning to appreciate salmon, which I find absolutely mouthwatering when it’s bathed in lemon juice and served on a bed of hot, steaming rice. I still think about the horrific act of catching and killing the fish, the result of a life spent on beaches where the salmon run in summer. I remember stopping to watch a fisherman once a few years ago, after he had brained a slick, glistening Chinook and sat cleaning it on a log. I stood rooted in the sand, completely repulsed but unable to move away.
“It’s pretty awful, isn’t it?” The man said, noticing my stricken expression. “I hate this part. I don’t like killing something so beautiful, but my wife loves salmon. The worst part is when I catch a female and I open her up and find a bunch of eggs. That’s tough to handle. This one, thank god, is a male.”
If I can manage to heave this memory out of my thoughts, I enjoy my salmon. But I do always wonder if the butcher had to scoop out a mass of gelatinous eggs, babies that will never be born, before preparing the fish to be served on my plate.
Someone told me recently that our tastes change every seven years. Old taste buds are replaced with new ones with new preferences, which explains the variations in our diets as we age. So perhaps it’s not that we were wrong before, that rhubarb pie always tasted wonderful and we were just slow in coming around, it’s that at some point we’re tasting it with an entirely new mouth.
I was married for almost exactly seven years. Is it, then, a question of humility? Should I learn to admit that the girl I was on my wedding day was wrong, that she should never have made that choice, that she was too young or too stupid or just plain misinformed? Or did my cells regenerate, dead ones sloughing off like molting feathers, revealing a woman seven years later who was made up of completely new parts? For most of history, the idea of neurogenesis was thought impossible. Scientists believed that the brain was fixed at birth, only producing new cells during its initial formation in the womb. But now we know that brain cells do regenerate, that new neurons are continually formed even in adulthood, particularly within the hippocampus. The hippocampus is part of the limbic system, those portions of the brain that “seemingly support a variety of functions, including emotion, behavior, [and] long-term memory.” Perhaps I woke up one morning with a new brain, fresh cells that had no idea I was supposed to love the man who slept beside me. Perhaps the newborn cells in my hippocampus registered his presence with a start. He’s very handsome, they might have thought, but WHO IS HE?
But these are thoughts better reserved for coffee drinking; the bitterness of coffee is much better suited for the focused consideration of facts and figures and scientific progress. Tea drinking is for softer thoughts, softer memories. Several months ago I kissed a drunk man who looked unsteadily into my eyes and slurred, “You kiss like a poet.” I laugh every time I think of this, and I’m pleased to have discovered the final step in the making of a perfect cup of tea, something J- never mentioned during his lessons: you must laugh when you drink your tea. Laughter has the same affect on tea that it does on life. It reveals the sweetness.








